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New Puppy and in a panic??? Dr. Ian Dunbar is offering a free PDF download of his book "Before and After Getting Your Puppy". Go to: www.dogstardaily.com/free-downloads

Then contact me and I will do what I can to help both you and the dog.

<a href="http://www.thumbtack.com/ma/randolph/dog-training/dog-training">dog training</a>

Hello, and welcome to Training-U.

The site is free and available to all. The videos are all selected from you-tube (clicker training) site. (for perfect screen size view through you-tube) I reviewed about a thousand videos and these show best what I try to teach to my students. After watching the selected videos, if, you would like to work with me using this style and method of training please, contact me at:


I teach group classes at the Canton campus of Massasoit Community College

The only real dog trainer is a dog. I do volunteer work at the Worcester Animal Rescue League taking dogs to and teaching/assisting teaching the ongoing free dog training program Tuesdays and Fridays at 4:00pm.

I will make arrangements for private in-home lessons by request.

Training-U is a Progressive Positive Training site. There is no correction, no yelling, no leash jerking. The hardest part is going to be for you to learn that all negatives starting with Uh oh to to actual physical restraint is totally non-effective! We will use TREATS. Think about this, you reward "no" just like any other behavior. When you say "no" and your dog looks up at you and/or stops the behavior you didn't like, You need to reward the stopping of the bad behavior. Your dog gave up something it valued, the least you can do is recognize and reward it.

Treats are what your dog wants (at the time of training), provided by you in response to a behavior. Treats can be food and food is a wonderful beginning but there are better treats.
While walking, your dog wants to smell the environment. Fine, use that as the reward for not pulling you. I'll show several different approaches to loose leash walking.

A behavior is the smallest part of a movement that you can reward. Below is an example of a very small behavior, "lick nose".

The trainer explains that her dog often licks its nose when she gives it a "smelly" treat. I recommend using some peanut butter on the back of a spoon. Begin by starting a clicker training session and asking for any thing that the dog already knows, like "sit". You would cue "sit" click as the dog's bottom hits the floor and reward by presenting the back of the spoon for the dog to lick. You will probably see that after the dog has taken the lick from the spoon it will lick its nose, possibly a few times. *That is the behavior you want to capture*. The way to capture the "nose lick" is mark it with the click as soon as you see it. The reward for the click is another lick of the spoon which will get another nose lick you capture with another click and reward with another lick.

When you start, three or four clicks is GREAT and is a session, go on to other things

This is also a good practice video. Without your dog, watch the video and begin to click each nose lick as you watch. An important skill for dog training is learning how to watch a dog. Focus on the end of the dog's nose (called 'the leather') and the tongue. Actually click along with Donna

Think small, then think smaller, then think smaller still.

I will be attaching various videos from you-tube by numerous trainers using the same basic training technique.

Slow is fast and fast is going to lead to frustration.

Every item in the field of dog training can and must be broken down into easily managed "bits" of behavior.

  • Use the pages in any order you like, they are automatically arranged alphabetically by the site. I would recommend you start with the "positive Interrupter".
    • Want to practice your clicker skills without your dog? You can use a ball point pen, and try to match the trainer's clicks. There are a very few miss and error clicks. Focus very carefully on just the behavior and click when you think the dog has it right. That behavior is a moving target. You want the dog to get to an end point,
  • Training takes on the following form:
  • First create the behavior.

  • Luring-a technique involving using a small bit of food that is moved and the dog follows. Very effective for teaching "sit"
  • capturing-exactly like it sounds. marking and rewarding behaviors when they occur. Great for natural behaviors like licking, scratching, shaking-off, etc. sometimes though it is hard to get just the behavior you want. Jessie's "nose lick" is repeatedly captured and rewarded.
  • shaping-here is where the clicker comes in.
  • Then name it.

  • Remember, this is your dog, use your cue! "Go to crate" could also be "kennel-up" or "go to jail" or "go to bed" or "park-it".
  • You are responsible for constantly expanding your dogs abilities to do behaviors for longer periods of time and in the presence of increasingly more tempting distractions while you are further and further away.(the three D's- Distance, duration and distraction)
  • When you change anything, first, DROP THE CUE! When your dog has a nice "sit" in the bathroom (the smallest room in the house with a door and very few distractions, a great place to start any training) and you go to the kitchen, do not say "sit" yet. Start with a lured sit and reward it. Now your dog is reminded that "oh, yeah, when I put my bottom down good things happened before, maybe that will work again". Chances are you will be offered a sit which you will reward with a treat thrown so the dog has to get up to get the treat. He then has the opportunity to give another sit and see if this gets another treat? Don't get another sit? lure one more time then pause and give the dog the opportunity to give you another sit.
  • When you are SURE the dog is going to sit, then, is when you reintroduce the cue "sit".
  • There is good reasoning for dropping the cue when something has changed. Saying a cue and the dog not performing that behavior weakens the usefulness of the cue since the dog has just learned to ignore the cue.

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